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The Geisha and the Gentlewoman
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| Vivien Hoffpauir bought her first kimono from an antique shop in her native Leeds, UK. That marked the beginning of her self-introduction to Japanese fashion. Where other designers start with internships or big-time contracts, the creator of Vivcore started small. She designed kanzashi and sold it-where else?-on eBay. She learned the art through self-instruction: "I took some fabric from a skirt and pulled, and pulled, and pulled...and it became a little flower," her voice lilts. Soon there were people asking for commissions, and Vivien decided it was time to expand. Vivcore's first contribution to the fashion world, Gaijin Geisha, was born in 2002. |
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And in 2005 came the 'kimono hoodie'. Instantly a hit with Geisha's e-shoppers, the top features fun little twists to the traditional designs of a kimono, such as polka-dot lining. Often imitators use a simple cotton blend, leaving the finished result comfy-looking but dull. Vivien tops her cross-culture masterpiece with a kimono-like sheen. The pieces sold hand over fist, giving Hoffpauir the idea to expand yet again, this time with a new name: Gaijin Geisha became Cute Salad. |
| But the Japan Street express train had one more stop on Vivcore's
path. Wanting to give the Western fans of gothi-loli a place to
roam, Vivien opened Candy Violet. This line offers basic
selection that should be staples in the closets of any self-respecting
Lolita, consisting of hoop skirts in basic black with accessories dripping
lace. Yum. But the Lolita scene wasn't the sole inspiration behind the
conception of Violet. It was, in fact, the documented fashion movements
within her native England. "The people designing Lolita clothes didn't
start looking at other Lolita designers, because a long time ago there
weren't any. 18th Century European Art is very similar to Japanese fashion
of the Edo period." And, of course, it also bears a slight resemblance
to the mini-hats and pearl baubles that we spy on the backalleys of Dogenzaka.
Whatever the inspiration, Violet has the honor of being the only e-store
in North America for Lolita goods. But that doesn't go to Vivien Hoffpauir's head. It's not like the kanzashi, the petticoats and the hoodies are anything more than a designer paying homage while giving the dated fashion new life-and a new identity in the West. Before, most of Vivien's clientele desired to play 'dress-up', or to do nothing more than mimic the Asian styles that were becoming prevalent in the underground fashion scenes in Europe and the US. But recently, in a parallel trend with young Japanese working-class, Vivcore's followers expect pieces that bring functionality together with glamour. Says Hoffpauir: "It's about feeling sexy, about fun and playfulness. It's a modern take on old style." |
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Apparently this take is a smash with fans. Fans that caught a first glimpse of Vivien as the model for her own clothing line. "I set the camera up on the desk [and took the pictures]...It was around the time I dyed my hair purple and everyone noticed." While the scarlet hue of one's hair can complement Japanese street styles very well, many people that follow the trends find the clothes sometimes don't complement their shape. Compared to Japanese women, in Europe and the US, "A lot of people are bigger, wearing western sizes". This is another problem that Vivien found in her business venture, and she addressed it by making many of both brands' pieces in sizes more accessible to people that don't deal in petites. |
| Currently, Candy Violet's most popular piece is the 'Rococo
dress', and the Cute Salad kimono hoodies (presently sold
out) are in production anticipating a release in early 2008. Once you
are able to get your hands on one, pair it with a Salad kittie purse,
another brand staple. Vivien encourages you to order well in advance.
And judging from her enthusiasm, one thing she doesn't doubt is her job
security. "[A scene like] Gothic lolita is big. The Gothic Lolita
Bible is a book that is coming out about the trend." For a crash-course
in wearing gothi-loli before you click over to Amazon, go to Candy
Violet's website. With two ways to go above and beyond dress-up, Vivcore
interprets Japanese street through an interesting lens. www.vivcore.com www.cutesalad.com www.candyviolet.com -Kim Gillus |
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presented by Japan-Fashion.com 2008
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