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Herafter, each stage up to completion is delicately performed by hand. For example, over-dyeing to produce a 'dirty' effect; crush processing to create yet more detailed finishes to the jeans and air brushing, coating and heat treatment - all ensure each pair of jeans is entirely unique in colour and appearance. Such techniques sharpen the warped character of the jeans and leave behind subtle residues of the skill demanded in its production.

Originally, stone wash processing plants were dominant in Kojima, however recently factories specialsing in blasting and creasing have risen. In the course of such processes, the actual oder can vary from instance to instance. For example, a process beginning with washing, followed by crushing then back to washing and so forth, can manifest itself in a a variety of different combinations, but in any case, one pair of jeans takes over 24 hours to make.





From the day that stonewash was born, it became clear that Kojima = Jeans.
According to Mr Ishii, presently in Kojima there about 1000 Chinese employees engaged in its sewing industry - a global aspect precipitating itself through these small streets. Another distinctive aspect of these factories is the age of their employees: many positions filled by young workers and high school part-timers.
Recently, due to the so-called frenzy to head to Tokyo, the skills of the Kojima craftsmen have been allowed to strengthen and can be passed down hereafter. With an ordinary looking trolley standing idly outside, this may look like an unremarkable private house but in fact it's the work place of some expertly skilled artisans.


Looking down at the city below from a quiet hilltop, rows of houses are lined serenely by the sea whilst tides flow swiftly beneath a majestic bridge that appears to go on and on. It may seem like a miniature city from here but in reality it's on a scale that is rich and plentiful.


I'm reminded that there lies a Japan beyond Tokyo.
* * *
I've returned from the offices of Whoval,
a brand known by all of Japan. I felt I should mention this distinguished label as they're a brand everyone deserves to know.
Again, the great makers come in search of so called news, calling in to ascertain the latest designs and proposals. Already a certain famous department store is stirring.
Whoval representative, Mr Ishibashi calls Kojima the manufacturing boulevard. Although the techniques used here are now being imitated abroad, others are unable to attain the same high quality and so they journey to this region.
An instance of the unique methods to be seen here can be found in the way the body of the jeans is processed.
The exact techniques practiced by Whoval remain a secret to the entire industry, however I am allowed to tell you that one of their distinct features lies in the aspect of roundness utilised in body processing.
This is in contrast to the usual angular approach adopted by most companies, Whoval instead focussing on and devoted to a method for those who wear jeans by those who wear jeans.
It's a matter of time before they're imitated, yet they remain fearless.
Developing techniques that will go on without hindrance, the spirit of today's Japanese artisan is blindingly visible here.
Though the manufacturers continue to sell, the scene shifters rarely, if ever, surface. Nevertheless, Mr Ishibashi does inform me that he is happy to be featured in magazines or articles, however a customer reaching for a pair of his jeans has a value all its own.

"Differing from neighboring town Fukuyama, assembly-line production is widespread here in Kojima, but they're aren't young people in sewing. So, someday I want to create a sewing division in my own company and change the image surrounding embroidery. I mean, I think it's cool if a girl can sew! Anyway I want to make denims that you don't ever want to take off once there on. That, and want to live with denims for life" he jokes.

"It's not over yet."
* * *
special thanks -
WHOVAL
BITOU co.
Binansenko co.,ltd






Japan-Fashion.com 2008
translation: Ashantha G (worldlocalize.Inc)
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