PLEIN :: Japan-Fashion.com

Pandas

Honestly, I've been on the lookout for a new pair of jeans for a while now. My previous pair, a tapered, indigo number, would always inspire unbridled looks of admiration from teenage passersby, cast inquiries from hair stylists I would have become all more the "blase bohemian" I imagine myself to be had I only shunned, and prompt compliments from loquacious designers that made me feel like I had won third place at an inner beauty pageant. With a low lying crotch they sat nonchalantly below the waist, the zip fly veered confidently off-center and undercover poppers rose from the ankle to mid calf, so I had the choice of whether to go sharp and skinny, easygoing bootcut or a hazardous combination of both. Yes, times were good.

Yet despite their charm, I still can't help but feel rather duped and dare I say it, abandoned. For what seemed like a strong, symbiotic union disintegrated rapidly after only two years into crevasses a sizeable young ferret could squeeze into, exposing areas of my lower anatomy that according to friends, are best kept to the imagination.

And so I've been patiently in wait for the past few months. I say in wait because with the abundance of denim in Tokyo, finding the right pair within a day or two of select store-hopping would be akin to trying to find your 100% perfect girl in a two hour speed dating circuit in some basement club in Roppongi - naive. Nope, encountering the right pair requires a heartfelt connection to be made, an irresistible urgency felt and a resulting moment of self discovery: all of which can only spring forth under unforced circumstances, rather like the meeting of pandas.

Unless of course you know where to look. And, as I found out on one searingly hot Sunday in July, PLEIN my dear friends, could well be the place to start.

Persian Blue

It's just past one o'clock in the afternoon and my partner and I are stood outside an anonymous white building in a narrow street in Sendagaya, hurriedly reexamining our material. A brief call and an elevator later we're greeted warmly by Press Officer Hisae Komiya and PLEIN Designer Yoshiji Moriya at the entrance to his studio on the third floor.

After exchanging business cards, I remove my daypack, take a seat and glimpse a seductive assortment of chilled refreshments appear as if by magic in Ms Komiya's arms. Placing them on to the low lying table between us I pay my momentary dues to etiquette then reach for an iced demitasse black coffee, enamored by the crystal droplets of condensation glistening like stardust on the persian blue surface of the can. Flicking it open I take a sip, let the cold soothe away salty memories of the roaring midday sun outside and settle down for a chat with our hosts.

PLEIN and Simple

Moriya began his career in fashion customizing jeans, but his aim had always been to start his own brand, which ultimately manifested itself as PLEIN.

Darting enthusiastically back and forth from the industrial looking racks of cerulean denims, dark-cool and light-warm shirts and stylish jackets surrounding us, the designer carries with him items from this Autumn/Winter lineup offered each time as confirmation that his "focus is on simplicity and creating garments that compliment jeans, such as simple t-shirts and tailored jackets'.

Although "achieving simplicity is difficult" it's quality as eternal is the theme, coupled with an "element having the old fashioned scent of the classical... refined for today's style" form the basic mold for PLEIN clothing.

As we talk about the booming international interest in Japanese street fashion, Moriya fondly recalls with first-hand experience the almost mythical days of Urahara, whilst I steal furtive glances at the denims hanging beside me. They're really quite beautiful.

The blue and black handicraft was a product of a month's sojourn in denim capital Kojima, where Moriya worked together with the masterly craftsmen there to create a line consisting of three basic models. The Classic is a straight leg model; Complete is equivalent to tapered leg; and Thin is a slim fit, focused on expression and distinguished by its fabric. A fourth model, PLEIN FOUR is a premium vintage version for those true aficionados.

Shuttle looms (also used by Union Special) weave the original selvage fabric giving PLEIN jeans an uneven appearance and a clean natural edge. This is the kind of thoroughness and knowledge that comes second nature to Yoshiji Moriya.

Film, music and literature have been influential in shaping Moriya's designs: music clearly inspiring the cut and sew shirts and leather jackets he shows me. From underneath the table he reaches for a clear plastic bag. Removing the item it's pair of jeans from the current season, damaged, faded: grunge. Perhaps the only new pair left since they're completely sold out.

Alongside these denims made for life hang stylish shirts featuring four separate panels to increase comfort, star riveted belts made entirely by hand and military-esque jackets; adding an all important balance to the collection.

The origins of PLEIN begin in purity, a featureless horizon untainted by color and not determined by the period. The message is quality clothes that are universal.

As for the future, Moriya hopes to open a flagship store in Tokyo, venture overseas and master his pursuit into the world of PLEIN.

Before my partner and I leave, Moriya mentions the theme for his Spring/Summer 2009 collection. "The merry pranksters" he says with a crafty smile. Seriously, I can't wait, so much so that I ordered a pair from this collection. Two in fact. What can I say, I found my panda and perfect girl.