RYU | JAPAN FASHION

"Have you decided yet?" Her gaze turns to the window behind me, allowing a delicate ripple of wistfulness to part unhurried over dark still eyes.

"January, I think."

I lean back in my chair as a petite young waitress approaches. She sets the table with arched precision then cradles a wine bottle tenderly to invite inspection. A 2002 Mas Doix Priorat. My companion hints her approval and our glasses our sated. The girl smiles assuredly then saunters away to the bar, her shoulder length deep chestnut coloured hair tied loosely back listlessly motions goodbye behind her.

"It's soon I know. But in any case, it's time to make my way."

Survival

The concierge at the Hotel Avanshell Akasaka informed me that the exhibition was taking place in room 812 of the building. Exiting the elevator, I quickly found the room and upon noticing that the door had been left slightly ajar, entered quietly. A slim young man dressed subtly in a white v-neck cut and sew and a dark pair of loose corduroy trousers immediately hurried over to greet me. Exchanging names, the youthful Mr Kimura hurriedly apologized since he had another guest to attend to, so after offering me a chilled bottle of mineral water he graciously excused himself. In the meantime, I leisurely browsed through the samples on display from the Spring Summer 2010 mens and ladies collection for his brand Ryu.

A short while later he returned and we sat down to talk.

Born in Osaka, western Japan, Ryuya Kimura's fascination with clothing and imported goods was first kindled whilst watching weekly fashion shows on television as an elementary schoolboy. Kimura later began to pursue this after-school pastime in earnest, revealing considerable prowess in fashion design. A talent that was recognized by his peers in 2002, when at 21 years old he was awarded a special prize at the 9th International Young Designers Contest in Russia.

In June of 2003 Kimura journeyed to Whitechapel, London where he was hired as a design assistant to a major leather jewellery maker in addition to participating in the following year's Autumn Winter London Collections.

On inquiring further about the year he spent there, a brief look of uneasiness escapes suddenly from his hitherto calm demeanour.

"May I speak honestly?... Well it was pretty severe. I spoke very little English so it was difficult making friends and because of the strength of the pound I found myself really quite poor. I actually lost 8 kg." He brushed the hair away from his Woddy Allenesque glasses then solemnly remarked, "London was survival for me".

Thank you for selecting me

Kimura returned to Japan in 2004 and in October of the same year, established the brand Ryu. Its philosophy can be summarized as "High Casual". Understated colours, organic cottons and elegant tailoring are carefully united to instill within each garment the unmistakable roots of high fashion with an air of daily insouciance. Accompanying the regular R-series is the 2010 spring and summer capsule collection inspired by sport and movement, fusing sportswear materials, such as teflon, in a classic fashion aesthetic. In September 2008, Kimura opened his store-cum-artelier Cobachi in Osaka city. Here, each and every piece of Ryu clothing is meticulously hand knitted. The designer himself acknowledges the inefficiency of such a time-consuming process but believes, in the fast moving and trend-ready cities of today, it gives his garments a uniquely lasting quality that buyers recognize, value and never discard. Kimura laments the hierarchy existing within the clothing industry, ranking store above brand above factory. Thus, the Cobachi store has given him an opportunity to address such imbalance and strive for a so-called flatness between the intersecting spheres. The space has also provided him with an ideal area to showcase his work to the public. Much like an artist, this element is what is truly rewarding for him, greater than sales or revenue. Although when asked if he considered himself an artist or creator he embarrassingly rejected such a label, "A craftsmen has an eye for a particular detail or technique. I don't consider specific things, I have a concept so I'm a designer.'

Growth

Ryu continues to grow in popularity within Japan, being sold in a number of distinguished select stores around the country including Gold Fish in Tokyo and Beams branches in Osaka. Kimura is conscious of the significance of the Japanese market and wishes to continue this steady expansion within his home country and also eventually diversify into the overseas market, particularly Europe, with the Paris collections being his ultimate target.

written: Ashantha G

RYU HOMEPAGE